The vineyard of Kiedrich Gräfenberg--or 'hill of the counts'--has been used
to designate Robert Weil's finest wines since the site was classified as
"Weinlage 1 Klasse" in 1867. Home to Weil's oldest vines (up to 80 years of age,
with the majority on their own rootstock) it makes perfect sense that Wilhelm
Weil decided that it is only from this site that his Grosse Gewächs will derive.
In fact, Weil's aim has been to produce a wine of a similar style to the
full-bodied dry wines produced in the Rheingau a century ago, when the region's
finest Rieslings were the most expensive wines in the world. Despite the high
quality of the Turmberg and Klosterberg, this is clearly on another level. It's
not necessarily more intense but is certainly finer and more complete--a wine of
obvious Grand Cru class. Without doubt this is one of the very finest wines of
the Rheingau, full stop.
The Gräfenberg GG is raised on lees with a minimum of 80% matured in large,
neutral oak Doppelstuckfass (large Stockinger casks). In spite of its power, it
displays stunning clarity and eye-of-the-needle precision. Like I said, it has
that classic 'Grand Cru' thing going on--effortless power, serious depth yet a
lightness of being that makes it so damn easy and endlessly fascinating to
drink. Expect a super-fine yet intense wine loaded with pink grapefruit, ripe
lemon rind and white peach fruit. The long, salty finish offers hints of
jasmine. Yet again, the 2018 is a stunning example of this legendary terroir.
When you think of what we are paying now for top notch Grand Cru white
Burgundies, this remains an absolute bargain, matching the best of them for
class and quality. Few (if any!) from that region could match it for