Moreau Naudet Chablis 1Er Cru Vaillons 2020 Magnum

On the left bank of Le Serein and on the middle of the slope, Vaillons is a particularly well-positioned Premier Cru that enjoys an excellent reputation thanks to the work of several key growers. The domaine works with vines planted in 1974 in the lieux-dits of Les Epinottes (a cooler part of the vineyard) and Roncières (which provides more opulence). Then, a parcel of 75-year-old vines in Sécher usually accounts for 30% of the blend and provides intense mineral cut and structure. The wine was fermented and aged in both tank and older barrels. Each parcel was vinified separately before being blended.

The 2020 offers stony aromas as well as tart yellow plum, citrus and crème fraîche, while the palate is racy with bitter orange, grapefruit peel and candied lemon notes. It’s firm and juicy, which is surprising given that Vaillons is one of Moreau’s more ‘solar’ vineyards. And yet, this is also wonderfully long and punchy, with loads of pithy citrus and energetic freshness. A terrific Vaillons that will certainly get even better with another few years in the bottle.