Dappled Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2024

The Les Vergers comes from John and Josie D’Aloisio’s vineyard, high above Seville in the Upper Yarra. The vines, planted in 1991 on their own roots, are I10V1 clone Chardonnay set in deep red volcanic soils - this is the site that has most contributed to Shaun Crinion’s reputation as one of the most skilled Chardonnay makers in the region.

The fruit is hand-picked and cooled overnight before a gentle whole-bunch foot crush and long press. The juice runs straight to barrel without sulphur, where it begins fermenting naturally in a mix of French oak, 70% old and 30% new. There’s no stirring of lees, no temperature control, it's a little wild but beautifully detailed expression of the Upper Yarra.

Compared with the Appellation Chardonnay, this wine has more power and depth. The extra time on lees and a touch more new oak bring greater texture and a subtle savoury edge. The aromas lean toward yellow stone fruit, custard and toasted brioche with a flicker of flint. The palate is layered but focused with ripe peach and apple pie flavours balanced by tight, fresh, grapefruity acidity.

It’s one of Shaun’s most complete releases to date, and one that will only gain detail with a few years in the cellar. Production is small and demand is always strong for this wine, so don’t wait too long.