Valenciso Rioja Blanco 2021

This fleshy, classy white is crafted from 100-plus-year-old vines of Viura (70%) and Garnacha Blanca (30%). It is sourced from their highland vineyards around Haro and Villalba. After a wild ferment, the wine was aged on lees in Russian, steam-bent, untoasted oak barrels (a fine-grained Caucasian wood that allows for excellent balance between fruit and oak) for nine months.

The result is a super-pretty, aromatic wine with crushed citrus notes, savoury elements and a juicy, silky and vibrant palate (racy, yet with good texture thanks to the low yields from the ancient vines). The finish is salty, savoury and refreshing. Since 2017 the wine has been presented in a Burgundy-shaped bottle, another indication of where this wine is heading.